Showing posts with label Longs Peak. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Longs Peak. Show all posts

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Longs Peak

14,255 ft Longs Peak was the 6th and final 14er of the summer for Ryan and I (note I said "summer" and not "year"). Back in May when I first looked at Longs this year I honestly would never have guessed I would summit it in 2007. It's an intimidating giant among giants that you can easily see from DIA (Denver airport), almost anywhere within RMNP, and other 14ers two hours away such as Mt. Bierstadt. It attracts (or creates) most of the bad weather within sight of RMNP, and is the only 14er in the Rockies north of I-70 until you get to Alaska and the Yukon (Mt. Rainier in the Cascades is the only 14er north of Longs in the lower 48). What all that means is I'm pretty happy that I made it up and back on the first try, and am surprised I was able to do so within 4 months of moving to Colorado.

Our adventure began with the alarm going off at 2:15am Saturday morning. After a bit of disbelief, we headed out and made it to the Longs Peak Ranger Station trailhead (9,405 ft) at 4:00 am. There were already at least 75 cars parked when we got there. We hiked the first two hours in the dark with our headlamps. While we were below the treeline the air was extremely warm, and I wouldn't have been surprised if you told me it was 75 degrees. Once above the treeline it was probably below 50 with the windchill. We could see clouds around Mt Lady Washington, and I thought for sure we'd end up turning back due to weather. The sunrise was a beautiful sight. Just after the sun came up we hiked around Mt Lady Washington (13,281') and Storm Peak (13,326'). Despite pulling my quasi-frequent "heave whatever you got" 15 minutes into the hike, I found the first 6 miles of the 7.5 mile journey the easiest/most gradual of all the 14er ascents so far. [I was really pissed at my body for the el-puke-o but have since discovered this is a side effect of Rolaids, which I had taken to help with the Mexican pizza from a few hours earlier, so now I don't feel so lame.] After those first 6 miles, however, fate turned and presented the most challenging mile and a half I have ever climb/hike/crawled. To be specific, the first 3500 ft over 6 miles took us 3 hours and the last 1255 ft over 1.5 mi took us 2.5 hours.

The first obstacle in the Keyhole route is getting across The Boulder field (at 13,000 ft) to the Keyhole. The boulder field looks like this (from above, in the Keyhole itself):
Once across the boulder field and through the Keyhole, you're faced with "the Ledges" then "the Trough" to "the Narrows" and finally "the Homestretch" to the summit. The names are all very appropriate. Here's the Trough from above, for example:
In the above photo you can see Glacier Gorge (a view just shy of the Maroon Bells and Tetons in my opinion) with Mills and Black lakes below. This is he inverted view of the hike Alissa and I made to Mills lake where we saw elk. Here's the backside of the "Colorado quarter" picture, with 13,497 ft Pagoda Mtn, 13,579 Chiefs Head Pk and 13,310 Mt. Alice in view (viewed best by clicking on the image, then All Sizes > Original on flickr):
I thought for sure I was at the summit when I came around the final corner and saw the Homestretch. It looks really technical, but actually isn't that bad as long as you put a bit of thought into hand and feet placement.
We made it to the summit in 5.5 hours, which is apparently average.
We spent 30 minutes on the summit (until 10am), bringing our duration above 13,000 ft to 3 hours before we even started down. The hike up was definitely only half the battle. This came into play for Ryan more than me, but suffice it to say 5 hours above 13,000 feet starts to affect your mental capacity, lung capacity, and just about any other capacity you may have. Examples:
  • My breathing got to the point where when I took a deep breath I sounded like an asthmatic whether I breathed through nose or mouth... it was kind of like an empty wheezing, like you can almost hear the air you're breathing in is thin. [update 2009-07-05: apparently this is called Rales, and was just a minor case]
  • I kept talking about how we were going to take 150,000 steps over the 15 miles round trip because we were averaging 10,000 steps / mile. Apparently I thought "2 feet per step" for 5,280 ft meant ~10,000 steps / mi instead of ~2500 steps / mi.
When we made it back to the Keyhole we could see rain and lightning within reasonable distance. We tried our best to get down as fast as possible, but that still included a couple of extended stops to catch breath and rest sore legs. We made it back to the parking lot at 3:15pm, no more than 5 minutes before a significant downpour. It took us 5:15 to get back to the Jeep, bringing our total to 11:15 including the summit. I was glad to see the hike below the treeline in the day. It's a beautiful mature pine forest with a creek (called Alpine Brook) running along the path for most of it. The camp sight named "Goblin's forest" seemed very fitting, and the screeching elk was also a bit eerie.

I don't take back what I said in May about Huron being hard, but this is now easily the most challenging day I have ever done. Not to be over-dramatic, but whatever used to be #1 on the "most physically and mentally draining day of my life" list is now #2. Two days later my thighs are still sore and my calves are flexed. I felt Pikes Peak in my bones with the jarring descent, but I feel Longs in my totally drained muscles. [I have no desire to ever run a marathon, but imagine I have a bit of an idea of what that feels like after this 15 mile day, and am pretty confident I could walk a full marathon in decent time.] When I got home, I ate a large dinner and fell asleep unintentionally on the couch watching a strange movie about an endurance runner named Forrest Gump. After waking up tired and confused, I cleaned up dinner and proceeded to sleep for another 10 hours before getting up for church on Sunday.

Unlike the other 14ers I've done so far, Longs seemed to be more about the route than the view from the top. It's very strange seeing so much land above treeline - it really doesn't look like other peaks. All in all, I feel lucky for the good weather, am very proud yet humbled, and would like to thank Longs Peak for giving up its prize before the weather finally broke. As usual, the pictures don't do justice, but you can see all photos from this hike at http://flickr.com/photos/brett_burch/sets/72157601541063519/.

For some extra information about Longs, visit the RMNP "climbing Longs" page or Roger Wendell's 14ers page, where he adds this bit of color to the conversation:
According to the July 31, 2005 Denver Post (Sunday, front page story by Steve Lipsher) Longs Peak is Colorado's second deadliest 14er (right after Maroon Bells) with 55 documented fatalities since Carrie Welton died of exposure near the Keyhole in 1884. Longs Peak was named after Army Major Stephen Long who made the first recorded American sighting of the peak in the 1820s. Colorado River explorer John Wesley Powell, in 1868, was the first to climb the peak. Over 25,000 people attempt the 15 mile round-trip climb each summer with about 10,000 reaching the summit. Average time for the round-trip ascent is about 12 hours with Chris Reveley having completed it in two hours and four minutes in 1979!

Monday, July 9, 2007

Bear Peak and Bighorn in Guanella Pass [catching up]

On May 19 Ryan and I decided to hike to the highest point in Boulder to help us get acclimated to elevations we were hoping to exceed by climbing some 14ers. The highest point in Boulder is Bear Peak, at 8,461 ft above where the ocean stops and the terra firma starts. It's the tallest point on the left side of the *very* attractive photo below, taken several miles east of Boulder:

We started in the early afternoon from the NCAR parking lot. I wish we would have read this (see Astertiki for full description) before our journey began:
Fern Canyon is a very steep climb and as such is much shorter. The climb is goes up 2100 vertical feet in 1.4 miles. It goes almost straight up Fern Canyon and then straight up the a ridge to get to the peak.
Another account of this hike can be found at http://www.thedenverchannel.com/discovercolorado/13404382/detail.html. Having not read either of the above and simply looking at a map with a slight concern that it was already mid-afternoon, we decided to take the shortest route to the top. I'll cut right to the chase and tell you the middle section of this hike is probably the steepest hiking I've ever done... as in steep steps carved out of the rock to gain at least a foot of elevation with each step.

The trail starts with a very mild ascent and then dips down through a quaint valley to cross Bear Creek. The trail then heads up moderately towards Fern Canyon. When we got to the Fern Canyon trail split most of the other people around us decided the afternoon rain was not going to hold off and advised us to turn around. We made the correct assumption that the lightning was far enough away (and moving further away), so we pressed on. That was when the fun began. If you do decide to follow this trail and you're winded before you get to Fern Canyon, you should either turn around or make sure you have more water than you probably assumed you needed. I kept thinking I could see the top of Bear Peak only to find out that we had another switchback and hillside to get around. You're almost home when you can see Boulder to the east and Flatirons 1 and 2 below. Beyond that point, the trees slowly thin out until you're scrambling to reach the tallest rock. Here are our summit photos:


In both of these pics, we're looking north towards Longs Peak (the highest point in the background, northernmost 14er in the Rockies, to be climbed next summer, etc) and the Continental Divide in Rocky Mountain National Park. Bear Peak offers a great view of Denver (and probably Pikes Peak on a clear day) to the southest, the Indian Peak area to the west, and the Continental Divide and Front Range to the north-northwest... not to mention Boulder and the Flatirons below to the east.It took about 3 hours (I think... it's been a while now) from start to finish, so this takes up most of a free afternoon but I highly recommend it to those with strong knees!

[
update: This hike is one of 4 hikes mentioned in the current (Sept 07) issue of Backpacker magazine for being particularly "green" due to the fact that you can take a bus to the trailhead. I just got this in the mail today (it's like a Christmas present every time I get the new Backpacker) and the whole issue is about the effects of climate change. Here is the description of this hike from the magazine:
You'll skirt the base of the Flatirons, the massive slabs that serve as the backdrop to the city of Boulder, to reach one of the best views in the Front Range on this 6 mile out-and-back. Although the trail is extremely steep in places, well-placed steps, switchbacks, and a stunning 360-degree view from the summit of Bear Peak make it all worthwhile. From the NCAR parking lot, follow the trail as it drops down the north edge of a mesa. Continue west across a minor saddle, then descend and turn left onto the Mesa Trail to parallel the base of the Flatirons toward Bear Canyon. Wind through ponderosa pine, then join an old road just past the mouth of Bear Canyon. You'll cross a field, then switchback up to join the Fern Canyon Trail on the right. Your quads may rebel as you climb several steep sections up a ridge, but by the time you take in the view from the top, it'll all be forgotten.

]

The next day we headed up to Guanella Pass, where the trail for Mt. Bierstadt starts from. The road is dirt almost immediately (once you find it... it's at the southwest corner of town a few blocks from the main square) when you get above Georgetown. It was only open towards the pass for 8 miles, but we did make it far enough to see several Bighorn that still had their winter coats (compare the white to a "normal" summer coat of brown). They had come down to the road to lick the snow salt from the road. Here are a few photos:


All in all, one of the first weekends in town and plenty of adventure.